I-Hwa Cheng

I remember the French Quarter crowded with tourists taking carriages, music all over Bourbon Street and fresh oysters with beers from my little trip with families eight years ago. People here seemed to be ready for any small talk in any time.

But it’s also a city that has been through hell and waiting to be reborn.

At 2:30pm, it was a 75-degree breezy sunny day. I was standing right before French Market and looking confused. It seems like things have not changed much.

“I think Katrina is a chance for other musicians who have been wanting to play in Bourbon Street or French Quarter,” said a man standing behind a Jazz album booth. “When I came back I was surprised to see that many new ones have replaced the old ones, which is good I think,” he smiled, in a “big easy” attitude.

At 5:30pm it was a little bit cooler and breezy, but still a sunny day. I was with Alex from the Buddhist Tzu-Chi Foundation of New Orleans. He happened to be a tourist guide, so he drove me around and showed me the houses in the area that was rebuilt only for musicians.

But when I went to the area that has been affected the most, many houses were still abandoned with spray painted crosses. I was about to cry.

In Taiwan, we just had the worst flood in 50 years caused by a hurricane three months ago and hundreds of people died.

Now I am standing here and looking at this horrible scene of this country. Somehow I felt guilty.

For the first 24 hours here in Big Easy, it was really worthy. But it’s been a long day. I have to close my eyes and slow down quite a bit.

I’m not here to change anything, but I was changed.